Rome remains a top destination for foodies, and has more dining diversity today than ever. Many of its trattorie haven’t changed their menus in a quarter of a century, but there’s an increasing number of creative eateries with chefs willing to experiment and revisit tradition to embrace modernity.

Restaurants generally serve lunch between 1 and 2:30pm, and dinner between about 8 and 10:30pm. At all other times, most restaurants are closed—though a new generation is moving toward all-day dining, with a limited service at the “in-between” time of mid-afternoon.

If you have your heart set on any of these establishments below, we seriously recommend reserving ahead of arrival. Hot tables go quickly, especially on high-season weekends—often twice: once for the early dining tourists, and then again by locals, who dine later, typically around 9pm.

A servizio (tip or service charge) is almost always added to your bill, or included in the price. Sometimes it is marked on the menu as pane e servizio (bread, cover charge, and service). You can of course leave extra if you wish—a couple of euros as a token.

Don’t leave town without trying one of Rome’s outstanding ice-cream parlors. Gelaterie aimed exclusively at tourists are notorious for poor-quality gelato and sky-high prices. The best gelato is made only from natural ingredients, which impart an often subtle color (if the pistachio gelato is bright green, for example, rather than grayish-green, move on).