Today, thanks to a massive influx of tourist dollars as well as rising incomes of ordinary Czechs, Prague now supports many very good restaurants, with traditional Czech places supplemented by French, Italian, Japanese, Chinese, and Indian restaurants. The past couple of years have also even seen the country’s first Michelin star awarded to Allegro, the house restaurant of the Four Seasons Hotel.
But that doesn’t mean every place is good. For every decent restaurant that has opened its doors in the past couple of years, it seems at least two inferior restaurants — tourist traps aimed squarely at fooling unwitting visitors — have popped up. More than ever, it pays to be careful. Avoid places in the heavily touristy areas of town around Old Town Square and Karlova street. These are pallid imitations of real Czech restaurants that are meant to empty your wallet, not satisfy your palate. Many of the best places are located outside of the center, so be prepared to hit the metro or grab a taxi if serious food is on the agenda.
To supplement our picks and see what Prague’s expats are saying, check out two English-language restaurant blogs: the “Prague Spoon” (http://praguespoon.blogspot.com) by local critic Laura Baranik; and “Czech Please” (http://czechoutchannel.blogspot.com), by an American known as “Brewsta.”
Staré Mesto
Staré Mesto has Prague’s largest concentration of restaurants, but be sure to choose wisely. Be especially careful around Old Town Square, where a dozen different restaurants set out tables in warm weather to take advantage of the incredible views.
Besides being the center of extracurricular activity, Hospody is the best place for a fulfilling, inexpensive meal and a true Czech experience, not to mention the beer. Food selections are typically the same: svícková, gulás, rostená na rostu, or breaded fried hermelín cheese (smazený sýr). Reservations aren’t usually accepted, though, so you’ll usually just have to show up and hope for an empty seat.
Try out these places especially if you are travelling with family and kids.
Bohemia Bagel
The one on Masná street provides a tiny garden with outside seating and a playroom for children, which makes family dining more pleasant and relaxed. Bagels and sandwiches are on the menu together with selections for small children.
Pizzeria Rugantino
A long list of crispy individual pizzas and salads, a seldom-seen non-smoking section, and childproof tables make this noisy Old Town stop a staple for families.
Pizza Nuova
The pizzas are great, the menu offers all-you-can eat specials for hungry teens, and there’s a small supervised play area in the corner for younger kids.