Turkish food has long been at the forefront of international cuisine thanks to its use of the freshest produce, the incorporation of flavors from the far reaches of the Ottoman Empire, and the Imperial Chef’s fear of displeasing the sultan. But just because an eatery bills itself as serving Ottoman cuisine doesn’t mean your taste buds are going to explode. This is because many restaurants cater to tourists while keeping the menu lean and mean, lacking anything really interesting. A week or two of grilled meat and you’ll see what I mean. Lately, though, Istanbul has regained its place as a culinary destination with celebrity chefs from the U.K., the U.S., Sweden, Japan, and, of course, Turkey. The progressive kitchens led by these chefs are located north of the Golden Horn, but even without a visit to one of these cover-story kitchens, the better meals will be had up in the neighborhoods of Beyoglu and Besiktas, and along the Bosphorus, and will be shared alongside Istanbullus.
Istanbul is a city of rooftop terraces, and summer dining is almost exclusively enjoyed high above the city accompanied by warm breezes and breathtaking panoramas. Top roofs in Sultanahmet include the restaurants in the Armada, Eresin Crown, and Sultanhan hotels, each with splendid vistas of the Ayasofya and the Blue Mosque. Over in Eminönü, Hamdi and Zindan restaurants sit atop the bustle of the Golden Horn facing the Galata Tower. In Beyoglu head to Midpoint, at Odakule, 360, Leb-i-Derya, Mikla, or the rooftop at NuPera for panoramas of the domes, minarets, and rooftops of the city. House Café and Banyan Seaside offer front-row seats to the charm of Ortaköy, while any Bosphorus village restaurant has the power to dazzle, by day or by night.
The idiosyncrasies of a foreign culture can create some frustrating experiences, especially when they get in the way of eating. In Turkey, dining out in often boisterous groups has traditionally been the province of men, and a smoke-filled room that reeks of macho may not be the most relaxing prospect for a meal.
Restaurants are everywhere, and although the name restoran was a European import used for the best establishments, nowadays practically every type of place goes by that name. Cheap, simple, and often the best of Turkish home cooking (ev yemekleri) can be had at a family-run place called a lokanta, where the food is often prepared in advance (and ready to serve, called hazir yemek, or “ready food”) and presented in a steam table. A meyhane is a tavern full of those smokin’ Turks I mentioned earlier, whereas a birahane is a potentially unruly beer hall. Both are said to be inappropriate for ladies; however, in the past few years, the meyhanes have morphed into civilized locales for a fun and informal night out.
Cold mezes (appetizers) are often brought over on a platter, and the protocol is to simply point at the ones you want. Don’t feel pressured into accepting every plate the waiter offers (none of it is free) or into ordering a main dish; Turks often make a meal out of an array of cold and hot mezes alone. When ordering fresh fish, it’s perfectly acceptable — actually, it’s strongly advised — to visually inspect your fish and to have it weighed for cost; otherwise, you may wind up with not only the biggest fish in the kitchen, but also the biggest check at the register, since some catches go to auction at near 100TL per kilo. If the price is higher than you planned to pay, either choose a less expensive variety or ask the waiter if it’s possible to buy only half. While we’re on the subject of cost, many restaurants are now starting a new trend to separate your money from your wallet: charging a cover (kuver) of anywhere from 2TL to 9TL per person, presumably for the bread and water (which up until recently were free).
The fastest way to the heart of a culture is through its stomach, and often the culture of food begins on the street. While this guide provides some counsel on what to avoid, I rarely take my own advice and simply can’t think of anything I’d rather do in Istanbul than nosh through its bustling streets (if they’re not bustling, it might be better not to eat there).
Morning rush hour in Turkey wouldn’t be the same without the sound of the neighborhood simitçi hawking his wares. A simit is a savory sesame-covered pastry much like a bagel, only thinner (the simitçi being the guy who sells simit). I’ve always frequented the guy who stakes out his spot daily on the small triangle of sidewalk located at the entrance to Bankalar Sokagi, in Karaköy. Ask for a packet of peyner (cheese), the equivalent of a do-it-yourself schmeer.
Down the street at the Karaköy Pier is the humble (and famous) Güllüoglu sweet shop, where you’ll find the best su boregi — a buttery cheese- or meat-filled flaky pastry that’s feathery and delicious, and a frequent staple of the Turkish breakfast. Güllüoglu also keeps their glass cases full of baklava. Grab a slab to go and munch on this buttery wonder outside on a bench by the cruise-ship docks.
All day long, vendors cloaked in Ottoman dress man the helms of boats bobbing wharfside at Eminönü, greeting arriving commuters and locals with grilled fish on a roll. It’s fresh, quick, authentic, and at 3TL, cheap. The Tarihi Eminönü Balikçisi is the original.
On your stroll along Istiklal Caddesi or through the Balikpazari (Galatasaray Fish Market), you’ll be hard-pressed not to be distracted by the odors coming from the few fast-food vendors displaying döner kebap (shwarma) on a vertical spit or oversize shallow pans full of cubed meat. The latter is tantuni, stir-fried beef cubes served in a wrap. Sounds pretty unspectacular, but it’s anything but.
Up in Ortaköy, stands displaying heaps of diced meats and vegetables, condiments and spreads, and ready-made salads line the street leading from the main road to the pier. These goodies are actually filling for potatoes (called kümpir).
You can really work up an appetite wandering around the spice bazaar. Across the Galata Bridge at the Karaköy seaport is the humble (and famous) Güllüoglu sweet shop, where you’ll find the best börek — a feathery and delicious cheese- or meat-filled pastry. They also keep their glass cases full of baklava.
