The fastest-growing tourist demographic in Iceland are long-weekenders who don’t come just to party but if there were no party they wouldn’t come. Reykjavík rocks like a city 10 times its size, with more than 50 bars and clubs in the city center. Thankfully there’s much more to Reykjavík’s famous nightlife than bar-hopping, and any evening in the capital is full of cultural activity.

Surprisingly Reykjavík has no full-time arty theater; offerings are generally American blockbusters (though at least movies aren’t dubbed into Icelandic).

Since the late 1980s, especially since Björk’s solo career took off, Iceland has enjoyed an outsized reputation as an incubator of alternative popular music. The Iceland Airwaves Festival attracts more visitors to Iceland than any other single event. Good music can be heard virtually every night, often in galleries, stores, and other unpredictable venues, so check listings in the free circular The Grapevine (www.grapevine.is). Reykjavík’s two alternative music store/labels 12 Tonar and Smekkleysa are also prime places to tap into local happenings.

The alternative scene roughly divides into three camps: hard rock, indie rock, and electronica. But don’t mistake the hippest, edgiest alternative bands like Sigur Rós, Múm, and Gus Gus for the entire popular music scene. Iceland’s version of American Idol, Idol Stjörnuleit (Idol Starsearch) is watched by half the country and is as unabashedly “pop” as its American forebear.

Nasa, Reykjavík’s largest club venue, hosts every style imaginable. Another prestigious and diverse club venue, where you can usually catch two bands for less than the price of a movie ticket is Gaukur á Stöng.

A more intimate club than NASA, Grand Rokk, feels very local and has “rokk” in the title for a reason. By contrast, the arena-size Laugardalshöll, on a soccer ground in Laugardalur Park, hosts the biggest international acts. Cafe Amsterdam, is a good place to catch up-and-coming bands each weekend.

Reykjavík bars change constantly, and listings are quickly outdated. If you’re not sure where to go, trust your instincts, keep on the move, and ask locals for advice. Icelanders are very accessible, especially when they’re in party mode, and the nightlife scene is nowhere near as snobby as it is trendy.

Freaky Friday The first Friday of every month, all day and into the evening, the trendy and adventurous line up and surrender their hair to the creative whims of the talented stylists of Galleri Gel, while regulars socialize and onlookers line the walls and couches drinking beer and wine.

Night Circle Tour Nightlife comes in a package tour, starting Friday and Saturday nights at 10 PM at Bar 11. You get an hour of free drinks at Bar 11, shots at two different bars, a cocktail at a nightclub, and — to complete the ritual — a hot dog. Around 40 others are along for the ride, Icelanders and tourists alike.