MUSEUMS
Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art
The Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art is one of the three galleries that make up the National Galleries of Scotland, alongside the National Gallery and the Portrait Gallery. Set within beautiful landscaped parkland, the gallery is spread between two impressive neo-classical buildings: Modern One and Modern Two. On display in Modern One is a stunning permanent collection of art, covering every major art movement since the start of the 20th century, including paintings by Matisse, Picasso, and Lucian Freud, as well as a sculpture garden featuring work by artists such as Henry Moore and Richard Long. Opposite is Modern Two, previously known as the Dean Gallery, which holds a changing programme of exhibitions drawn from the gallery’s world-class collection. It also houses a wonderful recreation of Eduard Paolozzi’s studio, which displays a broad selection of works bequeathed to the gallery by the artist in 1994.
Collective
Set up as a progressive artist-run organisation in 1984, Collective has since evolved into an influential operation with an emphasis on collaboration and experimentation. Focusing on visual art, the gallery supports and provides a platform for emerging local talent, especially recent graduates, in its New Work Scotland Programme. It has recently moved premises to the City Observatory complex on Calton Hill, which presents exciting possibilities as the building is redeveloped and re-imagined as an arts space, opening up another exciting chapter in Collective’s history. Look out for Collective’s masterfully curated group shows, performance lectures, and experiments with traditional media.
The Fruitmarket Gallery
Situated behind Edinburgh Waverley train station, The Fruitmarket Gallery is a small but perfectly formed arts space in the centre of the city. Originally used as a fruit and vegetable market, the building was saved from demolition in 1974 by the Scottish Arts Council and turned into an art gallery. It became independent in 1984, though with continued support from the Scottish Arts Council, and is now one of the leading galleries on the Edinburgh arts scene. The Fruitmarket Gallery is famed for creating intimate yet accessible exhibitions, featuring internationally renowned artists such as Martin Creed, Louise Bourgeois and Dali, often accompanied by talks and video interviews with the artists that help to educate and inform the public.
Royal Scottish Academy
Established in 1826, and attaining a royal charter in 1838, the Royal Scottish Academy prides itself on promoting living Scottish artists through its programme of temporary exhibitions and events. A one of a kind institution, it is independently funded and led by eminent Scottish artists and architects. Situated in a magnificent building on the city’s main shopping thoroughfare, Princes Street, adjacent to the National Gallery of Scotland, the RSA has accumulated a wide range of art and artefacts from its members to form an impressive collection. At its core is the Diploma Collection, which is made up of individual pieces donated by each artist on their entrance into the academy. The institution’s strength is in conceiving engaging and diverse exhibitions and making the most of its illustrious reputation to promote the best of contemporary art in Scotland.
Arusha Gallery
Arusha Gallery is a relative newcomer to Edinburgh’s art community, opening its doors at Palmerston Place in March 2013, but it has already made its mark. Within nine months, a secondary gallery was opened on Dundas Street, at the heart of the city’s art district. The work on display is diverse and vibrant, whilst remaining accessible and commercial. The gallery presents group and solo shows, from artists both established and emerging, but also actively exhibits at different venues across the city and at art fairs throughout the UK.
Ingleby Gallery
Located in an old industrial building overlooking Waverley train station, Ingleby Gallery was established in 1998 and continues to run an ambitious programme of commercial exhibitions and off-site projects. With commissions by acclaimed artists such as Tacita Dean and Antony Gormley, as well as emerging talent, Ingleby Gallery is unafraid of showcasing conceptual, bold and cutting-edge art. This is literally advertised in its public art project Billboard for Edinburgh, which presents special commissions from prominent artists on a billboard on the side of its building.
Open Eye Gallery
Set in the centre of the New Town area, Open Eye Gallery is another well-established, small private gallery, operating since 1982. It shows an eclectic mixture of paintings, sculpture, ceramics, and jewellery, ranging from the traditional to the avant-garde. The gallery also has a Print Room, which is dedicated to modern and contemporary printmaking, featuring the work of notable European and American artists such as Picasso, Joan Miró and David Hockney.
PARKS
Princes Street Gardens
Princes Street Gardens, a public park right in the centre of Edinburgh, is available to one and all. This popular space was created in two phases in the 1770s and 1820s, and was once a body of water called the Nor Loch. Today, these gardens, which are split into the West and East Gardens, are populated with hoards of happy people strolling, staring, pontificating, and exploring. Sit on the grass in the shadow of the Castle (if even for a second) and delight in watching the wise old trees prepare for the cooler days as the leaves begin to drop.
The Meadows
Visit the Meadows on any day of the year come rain or shine and notice the buzzing atmosphere that surrounds. People can be seen crisscrossing in all directions. The vast grassland is decorated with quaint paths marked by armies of trees standing tall and leading the way. Notice the magnificent mature elms — most of them are Huntingdon and wych elms. However, near the Chambers Street entrance, a majestic Japanese Elm with leaves of vibrant green or rusty red (depending on the season) graces the park. These trees are constant spectators of the students who lounge, the bikers who cycle, and the canines that stroll here. In good old Scottish style, this park once hosted a loch too. Now, this is a main spot for commuters eager to reach various destinations in town.
Dunbar’s Close
Standing inconspicuously near the historic Royal Mile area is a little piece of heaven known as Dunbar’s Close Gardens. If a moment of self-reflection or some serious soul searching is on the cards, then this is the place to retreat to and do exactly that. Watch as the various shades of jade and hunter green suddenly begin to turn into their autumnal counterparts. Listen closely to the birds tweeting and the faint pitter-patter of trees shedding leaves. This charming spot is perfectly peaceful and is presented in the style of a 17th-century garden. Manicured bushes stand proudly amidst the shady trees. Try and triangulate your visit for when the fruit trees are in full bloom.
Holyrood Park
Since around the 12th century, Holyrood Park has been Edinburgh’s very own regal roaming spot. A five-mile radius of undulating land, grassy slopes, and intriguing historical sights, this is a place that demands appreciation. Gaze at the greenery as it withstands the gusty winds and harsher climates common to the cooler months. See a panoramic view of Edinburgh from the top of Arthur’s Seat and spot the seasonal colours of the city from an awe-inspiring perspective. Capture that perfect image of the swans that dwell on the tumultuous murky waters of St Margaret’s Loch, a body of water formed in 1856.
Royal Botanic Gardens
The Royal Botanic Gardens are a sanctuary of sheer joy. A horticulturalist’s dreamland, there is no other place in Edinburgh with such a diverse tribe of trees. Hopscotch over the layers of fallen leaves as you meander through the glorious maze of greenery. Experience the wonderful world of nature and witness the wildlife and plant species that co-exist in perfect harmony. When times become chillier, seek solace inside the excellent restaurant or greenhouses. Bookworms can congregate here and read away in the most stunning of settings.
Hermitage Of Braid
Head over to the Braid Hills and Blackford Hill and delight in the exquisite sights at Hermitage Of Braid. This impressive area consists of a 60.3-hectare nature reserve. Prepare to be enthralled with the wondrous diverse habitats. Layers of woodland have encompassed this spot for at least 300 years. Channel your inner nature guru and spot the lot, from beech trees to sycamore and ash. Witnessing the brilliance of the gargantuan older trees makes you ponder how many rings are inside, and what sights they have seen. From touring Hermitage House to delighting in the Doocot and embarking on an arduous walk, consider this a seasonal sensation.
MARKETS
Edinburgh Farmers Market
Standing astride the capital’s market scene like a colossus, the Edinburgh Farmers Market is a powerhouse attraction in its own right. Now in its 15th year and listed by chef and presenter Loyd Grossman as one of the world’s best farmers’ markets, the Edinburgh Farmers’ Market is still reliably hosting over 50 specialist producers who grow and rear the entirety of the fresh local produce they sell. Skip the supermarket and instead spend a few hours of your Saturday on Castle Terrace buying dinner ingredients from the stallholders variously peddling venison, organic beef, chicken, lamb, seasonal fruits and vegetables, jams, chutneys, crusty bread, handmade chocolates and organic beer. Tasting samples are commonplace across the stalls, so try before you buy from some of these esteemed suppliers, among whom that have visited on the last few Saturdays, are Puddledub Pork, Caurnie Soap, Eden Brewery and Tay Valley Fruits.
Stockbridge Market
Situated in Jubilee Gardens on the banks of the Water of Leith, the Stockbridge Market gets a rep as the ‘second’ farmer’s market in the capital, but that doesn’t diminish the quality of artisan, handmade and crafted goods and ingredients sold here every Sunday afternoon. The Stockbridge location also means that the market stays off the main tourist throng (and thus keeps jostling, overzealous visitors away) and bargain hunters will be put in the mood for a tour of Stockbridge’s many renowned charity shops. At the market, one may find items and goods ranging from artisan cheeses, smoked salmon, jewellery, crafts, soaps, crepes, melting marshmallows and even handmade dog treats. Some of the popular producers known to appear are the Edinburgh Natural Skincare Company, Bad Tempered Baker and – in their own custom-fitted VW Camper Van – North Berwick’s Steampunk Coffee.
European Christmas Market
No visit to Edinburgh in the wintertime would be complete without the quintessential and atmospheric European Christmas Market. It’s also pretty much impossible to avoid, regardless of whether you’re a tourist in the capital or a beleaguered Edinburgh shopper. The market has, for the last twenty years, occupied the main thoroughfare below the Mound, stretching from there, along East Princes Street Gardens Terrace and around the Scott Monument. But don’t begrudge the market; it still remains a unique shopping experience with its array of crafters, artists and gift shops. Culinary treats are obviously plentiful with several creperies and BBQs dotted around the fairground and the perfect romantic note can be struck with a cup of mulled wine shared between couples.
Out of the Blue Flea Market
Out of the Blue is a community arts organisation operating out of Dalmeny Street’s former army drill hall and their monthly flea market is an all-ages event to beat. Now a full-blown cultural hub playing host to a range of public events and artists studios. Inside the army hall on any given day, you may find art sales, theatre, dance, flea markets, vintage fairs and a food market. The flea market incorporates a cornucopia of hand-crafted goodies from local artists – bric-a-brac, vintage vinyl, fashion, musical instruments, antiques, furniture and the indescribable one-off gems. The in-house cafe will sate customers also, with its wide array of home-made hot meals and treats.
Tram Stop Market
Rebranded last year in tribute to the long-overdue transportation network, the Tram Stop Market is one of the more frequent markets to appear on this list, being open Wednesday through Sunday from 11am every week. A mixed market with a wide range of stalls, nestling in the shadow of John Lewis by the St Mary’s Metropolitan Cathedral (look out for the visual marker of the Paolozzi foot statue), the Tram Stop Market peddles exceptional street food and fresh produce. It’s a popular shopping destination in its own right, thanks to its gift, arts, and crafts selections, not to mention the variety of music and vintage clothes hidden in and amongst the treasure trove for eagle-eyed shoppers to spot. The market does special tie-ins too; the monthly Taster Day showcases new flavours from local businesses – including Austrian dumplings with vegetarian fillings – and all portions are under £5. Plus, during the Edinburgh International Festival and throughout the Christmas period, don’t be surprised by the spectacle of live music, entertainment and decorations.
