As one of the world’s cultural crossroads, Los Angeles is a veritable international atlas of exotic cuisines: Afghan, Argentine, Armenian, Burmese, Cajun, Cambodian, Caribbean, Cuban, Ethiopian, Indian, Jewish, Korean, Lebanese, Moroccan, Oaxacan, Persian, Peruvian, Spanish, Thai, Vietnamese . . . well, you get the point. Half the fun of visiting Los Angeles is experiencing worldly dishes that only a major metropolis can provide. Whatever you’re in the mood for, this town has it covered, and all you need to join the dinner party is an adventurous palate. And since it’s L.A., there’s always the bonus of spotting celebrities.
Although it’s those famous celebrity chefs and celebrity-owned restaurants that attract most of the media limelight, the majority of L.A.’s best dining experiences are at its small neighborhood haunts and minimalls, the kind you’ll never find unless someone lets you in on the city’s dining secrets — and this section is full of them.
Universal City
You can choose from among more than three dozen dining options at Universal Studios, including chains like Bubba Gump Shrimp Co., Bucca di Beppo, and Saddle Ranch in Universal CityWalk. But just in case you need a respite from the frenzied theme-park atmosphere, we’ve also included some of our favorite San Fernando Valley restaurants, which are within easy driving distance of Universal Studios.
The Sturgeon King, Take 2
New Yorkers suffering L.A. culture shock can seek comfort food on the fifth floor of the Barneys New York department store in Beverly Hills. The elevator doors open and voilà — a Barney Greengrass on the Left Coast. This authentic — and expensive — New York deli not only air-delivers its renowned smoked sturgeon and Nova Scotia salmon direct from the Big Apple, but it has even bejeweled the swanky lunch spot with subway-style tiles. You’ll have to move quickly to get a coveted table on the outdoor terrace — all those power lunchers from the entertainment industry won’t hesitate. The raison d’être dishes here are the Nova Scotia salmon (or sturgeon) scrambled with eggs and onion, cheese blintzes, and chopped chicken liver sandwiches — all washed down with New York-style seltzer water on tap.
Star Search: The Ivy League
If you’re searching for incognito celebrities dining among us common folk, casually stroll past the elevated sidewalk patio at the Ivy, 113 N. Robertson Blvd. (btw. 3rd St. and Beverly Blvd.), West Hollywood, around 1pm. On a sunny day, the odds are good (though the goods may be odd). If that doesn’t pan out, walk over to the Palm, 9001 Santa Monica Blvd. (btw. Doheny Dr. and Robertson Blvd.), West Hollywood, and order an iced tea at the bar followed by a long, leisurely trip to the risqué bathroom.
Since opening its original location on La Brea in 2009, Umami Burger, named after the fifth taste profile, savory or “umami” — has become something of a cult classic, spawning sister restaurants all over the city. The menu varies slightly at each location, as does the availability of beer and wine verses a full bar. Be sure to try the sweet potato fries, too.
L.A. Live
We’d be remiss not to mention all the new eateries at L.A. LIVE, the high-voltage (literally; there are giant LED screens lighting up the courtyard), massive complex that opened near Staples Center and the Los Angeles Convention Center at the end of 2008. Sure, most of the restaurants are chains, but at least most are local chains, and, really, we’re just glad to have so many options for lunch and dinner in the area now. The famed Latin music mecca, the Conga Room, relocated here, and with it came Boca, a pan-Latin dining room that looks into the nightclub and is a great option for dinner and a show. Rock’N Fish is a popular steak and seafood restaurant from Manhattan Beach; don’t miss the Navy Grog, a potent rum drink. The Farm of Beverly Hills has comfort food and lighter fare like salads and sandwiches, all made with seasonal ingredients. The largest Katsuya in L.A. opened in spring 2009 and is a stylish spot for sushi (the baked-crab hand roll is dynamite) and well-crafted, fresh-fruit cocktails. A Trader Vic’s opened in 2009, and while it isn’t as tiki-rific as the original, it’s great to have a second location for Scorpion Bowls and pupu platters. Wolfgang Puck Bar and Grill showcases the celebrity chef’s simpler side.
