Salzburg

Two special desserts you’ll want to sample while in Salzburg are the famous Salzburger Nockerln, a light mixture of stiff egg whites, and Mozart-Kugeln, with bittersweet chocolate, hazelnut nougat, and marzipan. You should also try a beer in one of the numerous Salzburg breweries.

If you want to picnic, the city has a number of delis where you can stock up on supplies. The best place to eat your picnic goodies is Mirabell Gardens, on the right bank.

While Salzburg is not a late-night dining town in the way that New York and some European cities are, many restaurants stay open late, often to accommodate concert- or theatergoers. But “late” in this sense rarely means beyond 11pm.

Café Bazar, is deeply entrenched in Salzburg’s social life and has been since 1906. Its regular clientele comes from all walks of life. Housed in a palatial pink-stucco building with many baroque features, it’s located across the river from the main section of the Old Town. The interior is high-ceilinged and vaguely Art Deco. You’ll still occasionally see someone with a Franz Josef mustache wearing a gray flannel Styrian suit with loden trim, but a growing number of the patrons are young and stylish. You can order salads, sandwiches, and omelets. It’s open Monday to Saturday 7:30am to 11pm, Sunday 9 to 6pm.

Established in 1705, Café Tomaselli, opens onto one of the most charming cobblestone squares of the Altstadt. Aside from the chairs placed outdoors during summer, you’ll find a room with a high ceiling and many tables (it’s a great place to sit and talk), and another more formal room to the right of the entrance that houses oil portraits of well-known 19th-century Salzburgers and attracts a haute bourgeois crowd. Choose from 40 different kinds of cakes or other menu items, including omelets, wursts, ice cream, and a wide range of drinks.

A melody by Mozart, who was born next door, might accompany your before-dinner drink at Hagenauerstuben. Many visitors never get beyond the street-level bar, where snacks (such as salads and goulash) and drinks are served in a 14th-century room with stone floors and a vaulted ceiling, highlighted by a changing exhibition of modern lithographs and watercolors. At the top of a narrow flight of stone steps, you’ll discover an austere trio of thick-walled rooms decorated with a ceramic stove and wooden armoires.

Almost every item sold at the old-time Austrian confectionery Schatz-Konditorei, is made from traditional recipes. Our favorite treat is the well-known Mozart-Kugeln, a cookie of pistachio, marzipan, and hazelnut nougat, all dipped in chocolate. You can enjoy the pastries and coffees at a table inside the cafe or take them away. Some varieties of pastry, including the Mozart-Kugeln, can be shipped around the world. It’s open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 6:30pm and Saturday 8am to 5pm, with extended hours during the summer Salzburg Festival.

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