While most people traveling to Croatia head directly for the country’s long, beautiful coastline, Zagreb, its capital, offers plenty of big-city attractions. Home to a quarter of the country’s population, Zagreb is the political and cultural center of Croatia and is a thriving, energetic inland city with some of the country’s best museums, restaurants, and shopping. Most of Zagreb’s major attractions are in the city center, which consists of two main sections: Gornji Grad (Upper Town) and Donji Grad (Lower Town). Gornji Grad lies on a high plateau and is home to Zagreb’s Cathedral and parliament building, while Donji Grad is a more modern area known for its world-class museums and the Croatian National Theatre. A good place to start your Zagreb adventure is in Trg Bana Jelacica, the city’s main square where the Upper and Lower Towns meet. Zagreb is made for strolling. Wander through the Upper Town’s red-roof and cobblestone glory, peppered with church spires. Crane your neck to see the domes and ornate upper-floor frippery of the Lower Town’s mash-up of secessionist, neobaroque and art deco buildings. Search out the grittier pockets of town where ugly-bland concrete walls have been transformed into colourful murals by local street artists. This city rewards those on foot.

Afterwards, do as the locals do and head to a cafe. The cafe culture here is just one facet of this city’s vibrant street life, egged on by a year-round swag of events that bring music, pop-up markets and food stalls to the plazas and parks. Even when there’s nothing on, the centre thrums with youthful energy so it’s no surprise that Croatia’s capital is now bringing in the city-break crowd. Zagreb is the little city that could.