Perhaps it was the renown of the Grand Bazaar that put Istanbul on the map of the world’s great shopping destinations. But it’s the hunting grounds of Old Istanbul, the elegant boutiques of Nisantasi, the burgeoning of homegrown designers, and the revival in traditional handicrafts and artwork that have kept it there.
Local Lingo — Walking through a bazaar or past a restaurant entrance may elicit a “buyurun” or “buyurun efendem,” both of which are expressions of courtesy. Buyurun has no English equivalent; it’s used as an invitation to “Please feel free” (to look, to come in), or as a “You’re welcome,” much like the Italian prego. Efendem is a highly polite gender-neutral form of address that also means “Pardon?”
The first thing that comes to mind when plotting a plan of attack for acquisitions in Istanbul is a rug, be it a kilim or tribal carpet. Carpets, kilims, and a whole slew of related items that have lost their nomadic utility comprise an indescribably complex industry, but it is unlikely that you will get very far before being seduced by the irresistible excess of enticing keepsakes.
Most people are unaware that Turkey manufactures some of the best leather items in Europe, comparable in quality to those sold in Florence, Italy (and in some stores in Florence, the merchandise is Turkish). Because leather items are individually produced in-house, quality and fit may vary, but the advantage of this is that you can have a jacket, skirt, or trousers made-to-order, change the design of a collar, or exchange an unsightly zipper for buttons at prices far less than what you’d pay back home.
The entire length of Kalpakçilar Caddesi in the Grand Bazaar glitters with precious metals from the Nuruosmaniye Gate to the Beyazit Gate. But Turkish-bought gold and silver are no longer the bargains they used to be, as the cost of precious metals — particularly gold — continues to skyrocket. However, cheap labor in China and India might still keep Turkish jewelers from pricing themselves out of the market, so all hope is not lost.
Some of the world’s best meerschaum comes from Turkey. This heat-resistant sea foam becomes soft when wet, allowing it to be carved into playful pipes that would make a collector out of the most die-hard nonsmoker. An afternoon in a historic hamam will expose you to some of the most beautiful traditional white copper objects, available as kitchen and bathing utensils, although keep in mind that you can’t cook with this toxic stuff unless the inside has been coated with tin.
As far as antiques go, shopkeepers seem to be practiced in manufacturing bogus certificates of origin that will facilitate your trip through Customs, but beware: The certificate may not be the only counterfeit item in the shop. Collectors should keep in mind that it is prohibited by Turkish law to export anything dated prior to the 20th century without the proper authorization from a museum directorate.
Less traditional items can easily fill a suitcase, and with clever Turkish entrepreneurs coming up with new merchandise on a regular basis, you won’t get bored on your second or third visit. Pillowcases, embroidered tablecloths, ornamental tea services, and brass coffee grinders are just some of the goodies that never seem to get old.
