Athens

The Acropolis

Few sights in the world compare to Athens’ Acropolis, with its Parthenon temple perched high on a rocky crag keeping watch over centuries of civilization. A reminder of the glory of ancient Athens, the Acropolis was the center of the ancient city and functioned as a citadel in its protected hilltop location. The most emblematic building is the Parthenon, the largest temple of the classical antiquity period dating from 447 BC to 338 BC. With its monumental rows of Doric columns and stunning sculptural details, the temple is an awe-inspiring sight. In the frieze on the eastern side, reliefs depict the birth of the goddess Athena. Other ruins of the Acropolis include the Erechtheion, a complex of ancient sanctuaries built between 421 BC and 395 BC. The most famous feature of the Erechtheion complex is the Porch of the Caryatids, with six statues of maidens in place of Doric columns.

Agora: Ruins of the Ancient Marketplace

The ancient Agora was the marketplace and the center of everyday life in ancient Athens. For an impressive view of the Agora from afar, head to the north wall of the Acropolis or the roads from the Areopagus. The best place to enter the Agora is at the north gate off Adrianoú Street (near the Church of Saint Philip). The Greek word “Agora” means to “gather and orate,” indicating that this site was a location of public speaking. The Agora was a place of administration and commerce as well as the meeting place of the Agora tou Dimou, a civic decision-making group. Athletic events and theater performances were also held here. One particularly interesting feature of the Agora is the 18-meter-long Royal Stoa, the seat of the Archon Basileus, who took over the cultic functions of the earlier kings. This sixth-century BC stoa may have been the scene of Socrates’ trial in 399 BC.

From the Agora, tourists can take a pleasant walk along the footpath that leads up the Agora Hill (Kolonos Agoraios). On the hilltop at 24 Andrianou Street is an awe-inspiring sight, the Temple of Hephaistos. This fifth-century BC Doric temple is one of the best-preserved ancient Greek temples, thanks to its conversion into a Christian church, which saved it from destruction. The temple was designed on a classical plan with six rows of 13 columns, and the Ionic friezes appear to be modeled on the Parthenon. Across from the Roman Agora, only 16 meters away, is the site of the ancient Library of Hadrian, a complex of buildings founded by Emperor Hadrian after AD 132.

Church of the Holy Apostles

On the site of the ancient Agora, the Church of the Holy Apostles was the only building left standing when this entire quarter of Athens was demolished to excavate the Agora archaeological site. Built in the 10th century, the church stands above a nymphaion (sacred spring). The exterior is notable for its ashlar masonry and its ornamental Kufic (a style of Arabic script) inscriptions. Typical of Byzantine architecture, the church has a dome supported on four columns, and the apse and transepts feature semicircular conches. The interior of the dome is adorned with original frescoes depicting Christ Pantocrator (Ruler of All), John the Baptist, adorable little cherubim, and archangels. Much of the original 11th-century iconostasis (wall of icons and religious paintings) has also been well preserved.

Panaghia Kapnikaréa Church

Gracing a little square that opens onto Ermoú Street, the Panaghia Kapnikaréa Church is a delightful place to visit. This beautiful little church was saved from demolition in the 19th century by the intervention of King Ludwig I of Bavaria. The church is a splendid example of architecture from the 11th-century Byzantine era. During this period, domed cruciform churches such as this one were typical. In the 12th century, the church was enhanced with a graceful entrance portico and a narthex featuring four pediments (built onto the western end). Inside, the church is decorated with 19th-century paintings created in the iconographic style of the Middle Byzantine period.

Olympieion: Temple of Olympian Zeus

Dedicated to Zeus, the Olympieion was the largest temple in ancient Greece. Though the Parthenon is better preserved, the Temple of Olympian Zeus was an even more monumental structure in its day. The temple dates to the sixth century BC but was not completed until the second century AD by the Emperor Hadrian. It’s easy to imagine the grand impression this temple made in its complete form. More than a hundred enormous marble columns once supported the grandiose sanctuary. Only 15 columns remain standing, and another surviving column lies on the ground, but the ruins’ monumental presence gives a sense of the massive size of the original building. The gigantic structure was a befitting shrine to Zeus, the ancient Greeks’ most all-powerful God, known as the King of Gods. Nearby, just north of the Olympieion, is a small park containing the ruins of Themistokles’ wall and the ancient Roman baths.

Panathenaic Stadium & Olympic Stadium

Ancient Athens’s largest building, the Panathenaic Stadium, has a capacity for 60,000 spectators. Constructed around 335 BC during the era of Herodes Atticus, the venue hosted the Panathenaic Games where runners competed in races around the track. The 204-meter-long track was designed with four double herms, where runners would turn in the races. Around AD 140, the stadium was updated with new marble seating by Herodes Atticus. The structure that tourists see today is a replica of the original stadium, which was rebuilt for the Olympic Games of 1896. This modern-era Olympic Stadium was created in the identical fashion as the Panathenaic Stadium, with 47 tiers of seating and a rounded southeast end.

The Charming Neighborhoods of Pláka and Anafiotika

Between the northern slopes of the Acropolis and Ermoú Street, the picturesque Pláka neighborhood boasts two important archaeological sites on Pepopida Street: the first-century BC Roman Agora and the second-century Library of Hadrian. However, the main attraction of this historic area is its charming village ambience. Narrow pedestrian streets and the cheerful little squares of the Pláka quarter are lined with lovely bougainvillea-trimmed pastel-painted houses. Tucked away in peaceful corners of the neighborhood are historic churches, such as the Metamórfosis Church in the southwest and the Church of Kapnikaréa in the north. The picturesque setting invites leisurely strolls. The Plaka quarter has an abundance of authentic Greek restaurants with inviting terrace seating. The area is famous for its Restaurant Staircase on Mnisikleous Street. Many of the restaurants look enticing but most are tourist traps (with aggressive hosts baiting passersby to enter) and should be avoided. Consult a guidebook or ask a local for recommendations before choosing a restaurant in this area, or instead try the quieter streets hidden away on the hillside, which conceal cute little cafés and tavernas. Also nestled into the slopes north of the Acropolis is Anafiotika, another atmospheric village-like neighborhood where tourists can enjoy a traditional Greek meal. The winding medieval streets of this Anafiotika are also a delight to explore.

Changing of the Guard at Syntagma Square

For many tourists, watching the Changing of the Guard at Syntagma Square is an exciting and memorable experience. The Soldiers of the Presidential Guard stand in front of the Hellenic Parliament on Syntagma Square 24 hours a day, year-round. The guards wear traditional costumes complete with pleated skirts, leg tassels, and pompom shoes. The Changing of the Guards takes place in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier monument at 11am daily. This monument honors anonymous soldiers who died fighting for the country. The monument features a marble relief that imitates a warrior grave stele of ancient times.

Saint Demetrius Loumbardiaris Chapel

In a verdant setting on Philopappou Hill, this tiny 12th-century Byzantine chapel offers tourists an enchanting spiritual experience. The chapel was built at the Diateichisma Gate because of the ancient belief that divinity protected the gates. Inside, the chapel has a single-aisle vaulted basilica form, and the walls are adorned with frescoes dating to 1732. The chapel’s name “Loumbardiaris” (meaning “The Cannoneer”) is connected with the legend that the church was saved by a miracle around 1650 when the Turkish commander of the Acropolis, Yusuf, bombed the church. The church was restored in the 1960s by the architect D. Pikionis. Another highlight of visiting Philopappou Hill is the chance to take in spectacular views of the Parthenon from this location.

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