Florence has bundles of excellent, mostly free listings publications. At the tourist offices, pick up the free monthly “Informacittà” (www.informacitta.net), which is strong on theater and other arts events, as well as markets. Younger and hipper, pocket-size “Zero” (http://firenze.zero.eu) is hot on the latest eating, drinking, and nightlife.“Firenze Spettacolo,” a 2€ Italian-language monthly sold at most newsstands, is the most detailed and up-to-date listing of nightlife, arts, and entertainment. Free monthly “iOVO” (www.iovo.it) is good on contemporary arts and cultural goings-on in the city.
If you just want to wander and see what grabs you, you will find plenty of tourist-oriented action in bars around the city’s main squares. For something a little livelier—with a slightly younger and more local focus—check out Borgo San Frediano, Piazza Santo Spirito, or the northern end of Via de’ Macci, close to where it meets Via Pietrapiana. Via de’ Benci is usually buzzing around aperitivo time, and is popular with an expat crowd. Via de’ Renai and the bars of San Niccolò around the Porta San Miniato are often lively too, with a mixed crowd of tourists and locals.
Florence no longer has a glitterati or intellectuals’ cafe scene, and when it did—from the late-19th-century Italian Risorgimento era through la dolce vita of the 1950s—it was basically copying the idea from Paris. Although they’re often overpriced tourist spots today—especially around Piazza della Repubblica—Florence’s high-toned cafes are fine if you want pastries served to you while you sit and people-watch.
Florence does not have the musical cachet or grand opera houses of Milan, Venice, or Rome, but there are two symphony orchestras and a fine music school in Fiesole. The city’s public theaters are respectable, and most major touring companies stop in town on their way through Italy. Get tickets to all cultural and musical events online; they will send an e-mail with collection instructions—or buy in person at Box Office, Via delle Carceri 1.
Many performances staged in private halls and other spaces are sponsored by the Amici della Musica, so check their website to see what “hidden” concert might be on while you are here.
Italian clubs are rather cliquey — people usually go in groups to hang out and dance only with one another. There’s plenty of flesh showing, but no meat market. Singles hoping to find random dance partners will often be disappointed.
Florence’s best jazz venue is the aptly-titled Jazz Club, Via Nuova de’ Caccini 3. You need to join, online or at the venue, which costs 8€ for the year and entitles you to free entry to all concerts. It’s closed Sunday, Monday, and all summer. The forthcoming program is posted on their website. New kid on the block is Volume, Piazza Santo Spirito 5r, which opened in 2010; it’s an artsy cafe cum creperie cum gelateria by day, with contemporary art hanging on the walls. When night falls, Left Bank revelers stop in for cocktails (around 6€), followed by live acoustic music 4 or 5 nights a week (Thursday night is a blues jam).
If you want to keep it going into the small hours, you will likely find Italian nightclubs to be rather cliquey—people usually go in groups to hang out and dance only with one another. There’s plenty of flesh showing, but no meat market. Singles hoping to find random dance partners will often be disappointed.