Old Town

In the midst of this modern financial powerhouse of a city is a neighborhood filled with historic charm, its narrow streets rising steeply on the east side of the river. Heading up Münstergasse, you’ll come to the Napfgasse, with the Brunnenturm, which was headquarters of the Lombard money-changers in the 14th and 15th centuries. Haus zum Napt, at number 6, has a fine interior with rooms furnished in Renaissance style.

On Spiegelgasse, at number 17, is a house where Lenin lived in 1917. In this street, at Cabaret Voltaire, Hans Arp and Tristan Tzara launched the Dada art movement in 1916. Spiegelgasse runs east into the Neumarkt, where you’ll find the Shoemakers’ Guild House, now a theater, and the Hans zum Rech, dating from the Middle Ages and showing how decorative styles changed over the centuries. Step inside at least to see its courtyard and the model of Zürich in 1800. The interior preserves painted walls and ceilings from the 17th century and fine ornamental ironwork. The 13th-century Grimmenturm, at number 27, was originally a residence. In these streets, you’ll find antiques shops and boutiques, as well as cafés and restaurants.

Uetliberg

For the best views of the city and the lake, follow locals to their favorite weekend aerie, the 871-meter Uetliberg. Southwest of Zürich, the Uetliberg is the most northerly summit in the Albis ridge, easy to reach by the Uetlibergbahn, a mountain railroad that runs year-round from Selnau station to the upper station. From here it is a 10-minute walk to the summit. The broad walkway is well lit at night and leads to the summit restaurant, a glass-enclosed space with beautiful views of the city lights below. Daytime views from the lookout tower stretch across the Valais, Bernese, and Glarus Alps, with the Black Forest to the north and the Säntis to the east. From here, an easy ridge walk to the Felsenegg takes a little more than an hour, where a cableway descends to Adliswil. You can return to Zurich by the Sihltalbahn. Riding to the Uetliberg at night for a dinner of fondue and views of the city with its lights reflected in the snow is one of the locals’ favorite things to do in Zürich in the winter.

Lake Zürich and Bürkliplatz

The focal point of Zürich, and a favorite playground for tourists and locals is the long Lake Zürich. The entire shore is lined with promenades and parks, where local residents catch the sun, jog, picnic, and swim in the lake. But the favorite way to enjoy the lake is on one of the many cruises from which you’ll see beautiful views to the Glarus Alps. Look for the steamer landing at Bürkliplatz, at the point where the Limmat flows from the lake. The Quaibrücke crosses the river to connect Bürkliplatz with Bellevueplatz. About 1.5 kilometers from Bellevueplatz is the beautiful Zürichhorn Park, built for the National Exhibition in 1939. Here, you’ll find a restaurant; a Chinese Garden; and a boat landing for the Limmatschiff, a boat that runs from the National Museum along the river to the lake, ending at Zürihorn.

Bahnhof

Zürich’s “Main Street” is the busy pedestrianized Bahnhofstrasse, stretching from the main train station (bahnhof) to the Bürkliplatz at the head of the lake. The 1,200-meter street is one of the most attractive shopping streets in Europe, enlivened by fountains, public art, trees, and distinguished buildings. Although many of the shops that line it are filled with furs, fashions, jewelry, and other high-end goods, their smartly decked windows and the buildings themselves make it a popular place for everyone to stroll. The middle section of the street was built in 1867 after the filling in of an old moat, the Fröschengraben; the parts towards the lake and the station were built a few years later. Among the interesting buildings are several dating from the turn of the 20th century: the Weber building (number 75), re-built in 1912 and 1928, and the Jelmoli department store complex at Seidengasse 1, originally designed with a skeleton in iron. Notice especially the 1913 facade of the Peterhof and Leuenhof building.

Fraumünster

Often mistranslated to Church of Our Lady, the name of the protestant Fraumünster actually means Women’s Church, referring to the founding of an abbey here in 853 for aristocratic women of Europe by the Emperor Ludwig for his daughter, Hildegard. Until the high Middle Ages, the head of the convent was also governor of the city. The church is a three-aisled, pillared basilica with a Gothic nave built from the 13th to the 15th centuries, a Romanesque chancel, and an Early Gothic transept with high vaulting. In the undercroft, you can see remains of the crypt of the 9th-century abbey church.

Lindenhof

Between the Bahnhofstrasse and the left bank of the Limmat, the western half of Zürich’s old town rises steeply to the quiet tree-shaded Lindenhof. This is where the Romans built their fortified settlement in the fourth century to defend against migrations from the North. Five centuries later, the grandson of Charlemagne built a palace here as a royal residence. Long after remains of these structures had all but disappeared, some incorporated into buildings around the park, the site was still used for important ceremonies; in 1798 the oath confirming the Helvetic Constitution was taken here. Today, it’s a tree-shaded park with benches, chess players, and tourists enjoying the sweeping views across the river and Old Town.

Limmatquai and the Rathaus (Town Hall)

Along the Limmatquai, a popular riverside shopping street, are a number of elegant old guild-houses with sumptuous interiors reflecting the wealth of the guilds which governed the town until 1789. Many of them now house restaurants, so you can get a look inside at the 1719 Haus zur Saffran (number 54); the 1660 Haus zur Rüden (42); and the two-storied Haus zur Zimmerleuten (40) from 1709, with a beautiful oriel window. Zürich’s Town Hall, the Rathaus, is easy to spot, as it overhangs the river and is supported on wide arches at the east end of the Rathausbrücke. Constructed between 1694 and 1698, the massive Late Renaissance building has rich sculptured decoration and a Baroque ceremonial hall that is well worth seeing.

Grossmünster (Great Minster)

Standing in an open terrace above the river, Zürich’s principal church dominates the city skyline with its twin towers. Built between the 11th and the 13th centuries, it is a Romanesque three-aisled galleried basilica with a chancel over a crypt that dates from about 1100. The upper levels of the towers date from 1487, but the domed tops were added in 1782. High on the south tower on the river side is a seated figure of Charlemagne, who is believed to have founded the order to which the church originally belonged. You can see the badly weathered original of the statue in the crypt; the outside one is a copy. Be sure to see the two modern bronze doors done in 1935-36, the sculptured Romanesque capitals, remains of Gothic wall-paintings, and the Late Romanesque cloister from about 1200. The three vividly colored stained-glass windows in the choir were designed by Augusto Giacometti in 1933.

Zurich Zoo

More than 360 different animal species live in the exotic world of the Zurich Zoo, one of the finest in Europe. Animals live as close to their own environments as possible: snow leopards amid the rocky Himalayan landscape, penguins swimming in chilly water, and you can spot flying foxes from a canopy walk amid 13,000 square meters of tropical rainforest. In the Kaeng Krachan Elephant Park, you can watch the Asian elephant family play with their baby and swim in their multi-environment outdoor complex, which was designed to resemble their natural Thai habitat. Trams and trains run to the zoo from the main train station and the Paradeplatz.

St. Peter’s Church

South of the Lindenhof in the part of the Old Town that lies on the west bank of the Limmat, St. Peter’s Church stands on a little hill. The oldest parish church in Zürich, it has an early 13th-century Romanesque choir under the tower and a Baroque nave with three-aisles and galleries. You can see the original 9th-century foundation underneath the chancel. In 1538, the church acquired the largest clock dials in Europe, 8.7 meters in diameter, and still holds that record.

Confiserie Sprüngli: A Confectioner’s Café

Sprüngli House was opened in 1856, and today, the confectioner’s café on Paradeplatz is a favorite stop for locals and tourists. One look at the stacks of temptations in the window, and you’ll be drawn inside to at least feast your eyes on the beautifully displayed truffles (made fresh each day), bonbons, cakes, and their signature macarons, called Luxemburgerli. The retail shop is on the street floor, while the upstairs café-salon serves breakfast, lunch, and afternoon desserts in genteel surroundings.